Not only is this city home to a combo pizza museum and restaurant (Pizza Brain), an artisan pizza truck (Pitruco) and, according to Bon Appétit’s 2015 “Ultimate Pizza Guide,” America’s very best pizza (Pizzeria Beddia), but it’s also a proving ground for the idea that this traditional food can be reinvented in infinite ways. Whether it’s a straightforward but studious Neapolitan round, a floppy tri-corner slice with cheese to spare or a newfangled pie laden with carefully sourced ingredients, there is a pizza for every pie lover’s predilection. Here’s a sampling of the region’s cheesiest, crispiest riches:

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